On the border between the Outaouais and Abitibi-Témiscamingue regions, the Dumoine River is one of the last major waterways in southern Quebec still in its wild state. And it will remain so forever. This is the story of an expedition to this rare survivor.
My ears almost hurt. Not because I have an ear infection or a perforated eardrum, heaven forbid. No, it's the constant roar of the turbulent waters of the Dumoine River that's resonating in my ear canal. On this legendary waterway in the canoe-camping community, the rapids follow one another almost without interruption. With each paddle stroke, their music takes hold of my mind, like the murmur of waves at the seashore.
During my five days canoeing on the Dumoine River, I was overwhelmed by its utter wildness. Beyond the roar of its rushing waters, I was captivated by the complete absence of noise pollution along its course. Goodbye, engine noise. No trucks, ATVs, chainsaws, or motorboats in sight. No notification beeps either: the river having been bypassed by cell phone signals, our phones fell silent. Aboard my canoe, Esquif, I realized that I was probably hearing the same murmur of nature as our ancestors, the Indigenous peoples and fur traders. Only the occasional murmur of my fellow travelers' voices rose above the perfect soundscape of the Dumoine.
Flowing due south in the far reaches of Quebec's Far West, the 140-km-long Dumoine River disappears into the forests of Témiscamingue and Pontiac. Perhaps because no paved road leads to it, only canoeists can locate it on a map. Even the beavers working for Hydro-Québec would have missed it. Yet, according to an old study unearthed in the depths of the internet, the Dumoine had the potential to host four hydroelectric power stations.
Throughout history, after the fur trading post, only loggers seem to have identified and exploited the river from the 19th century onward. Log driving had its heyday in the first half of the 20th century, but all traces of the log drivers have vanished. The surrounding forests that were logged have long since regenerated. There are still areas of white and red pine that have never been logged, confirms John McDonnell, Executive Director of the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society – Ottawa Valley Chapter, a passionate advocate for the area. On the riverbanks, vacation development has never taken root, or only minimally. Cottages are few and far between and concentrated in very specific locations. The only human-made structures along the route are the campsites, perfectly integrated into the landscape.
It is while paddling its waters that one realizes one is witnessing a small miracle – a miracle owed to the environmental groups who have lobbied for decades to preserve the Dumoine River's ecological integrity. Their efforts were rewarded in the summer of 2022 when Quebec announced the expansion of the proposed Rivière-Dumoine Biodiversity Reserve. This reserve now covers 1,759 km² , making it one of the largest protected areas in southern Quebec. The Dumoine serves as an ecological corridor between Algonquin Provincial Park, located in Ontario just 18 km from its mouth, and the vast forests of Abitibi-Témiscamingue.
Attacking the Rapids
The best way to explore the Dumoine River is by canoe-camping expedition. Several entry points open the doors to this waterway: the La Vérendrye Wildlife Reserve; the Quebec village of Rapides-des-Joachims, located on the banks of the Ottawa River; and the Témiscamingue region, an option I tested with the Tourisme Abitibi-Témiscamingue team, who invited me to join them.
From the municipality of Témiscaming, a mostly straight forest road leads us, 115 km further on, to km 64 of the Dumoine, skipping the more northern part of the river with generally calmer waters and several widenings forming narrow lakes, a less stimulating section for whitewater enthusiasts like us.
Our group is about to embark on a mission: to discover and showcase the eastern part of Témiscamingue, home to numerous canoe-camping routes, by taking photos, videos, and GPS readings. In short, we're not on vacation, but on the job. "The Dumoine River can be the highlight of a longer canoe trip in Témiscamingue, starting from Lakes Témiscamingue and Kipawa and paddling across several bodies of water to reach the Dumoine," explains France Lemire, creator of the website accespleinair.org, which gathers all the information needed for outdoor activities in Abitibi-Témiscamingue. This outdoor specialist is, of course, part of the adventure.
Taming the rapids
Our expedition begins upstream from the Class II rapids at Pont, meaning they are of intermediate difficulty. Before plunging into the water, however, we enjoy a session in calm water to loosen our muscles and practice our paddling strokes. Our guide is none other than Guillaume Rivest, owner of Exode and also a contributor to Géo Plein Air . This adventurer has been canoeing this legendary river for years, several times each summer. We're in good hands should anything go wrong. Although not dangerous, the Dumoine River still presents a challenge.
After our first night and lunch, we set off on the Pont Rapids, which stretch for at least 200 meters in a series of large rollers. At the helm of my canoe is Danny Laperrière, director of the Backcountry Co-op and an expert canoeist. I feel safe. Despite our best efforts, the first rapid wins the battle. Water rushes over the side and we get a good soaking, though we manage to avoid capsizing. After the initial stress, we're eager for more. A rapids canoeist is a rapids junkie; he always wants more. We're in the right place to get our fix.
In the days that followed, rapids galore. We barely had time to dry off before new obstacles appeared. Each rapid had its own name, and it wasn't chosen at random. For example, the Crampe rapid requires you to turn the canoe as sharply as possible to find a safe route; the Snake rapid winds its way through the river. You get the idea.
This river, perfect for paddling, boasts some of the world's most beautiful wilderness campsites. Mostly sheltered by mature pines, we pitch our tents on carpets of needles at the foot of rapids. Evenings fly by as we fish for smallmouth bass, swim in the crystal-clear water, and share stories around a campfire. The campsites are maintained by the volunteer team of the Friends of the Dumoine River. We extend our sincere thanks to them.
Several rapids and waterfalls require us to make short portages – rarely more than 500 meters, except for the portage at Grande Chute, where the Dumoine River plunges some forty meters before descending into a canyon. We skirt this exceptional site via a portage trail of nearly 1,300 meters that is said to have been used for 5,000 years. We are walking in the footsteps of history, quite literally.
Heavily enclosed along part of its course, the Dumoine River reveals spectacular rock faces, including the imposing 110-meter-high Bald Eagle cliff, which plunges directly into the river. A trail, frequented more by biting insects than hikers, leads to the top of the cliff. Due to lack of time, we didn't do the hike, and I still regret it.
Upon reaching the mouth of the Dumoine River, where it flows into the Ottawa River, we paddled to Stonecliffe on the Ontario side, where pickup trucks would take us back to our starting point. My immediate thought was for the defenders of the Dumoine River—Friends of the Dumoine River and environmentalists—to whom I raised my paddle. Without them, what would have become of the Dumoine River?
Box
La Dumoine, also accessible on foot
Canoe camping is no longer the only way to explore this river. Developed in recent years, the Dumoine River portage trail follows the river's west bank for 28.5 km, from Grande Chute to the Ottawa River. This rustic trail, which follows an old trading route, leads to the discovery of numerous historical sites. All the work of surveying and clearing the trail was carried out by volunteers from the Friends of the Dumoine River, with financial support from the ZEC Dumoine and several funders, including the Quebec Wildlife Foundation. Registration is required at the ZEC Dumoine in Rapides-des-Joachims.
WHEN TO GO
The Dumoine River is usually paddleable all summer, regardless of water levels.
CAMPING
Throughout their journey, canoeists find many spacious, clean campsites equipped with Thunderboxes, the compact version of the outhouse.
ACCESSIBILITY
It is possible to travel directly to the Dumoine River from Témiscamingue thanks to a shuttle service offered by the Coop de l'arrière-pays, which also rents canoes and all the necessary equipment for an expedition. The cooperative also offers a unique guardian angel service, available to intervene if needed.
ALL-INCLUSIVE SHIPPING
Exode bâtisseur d'aventures organizes all-inclusive guided expeditions on the Dumoine River and other waterways of Témiscamingue.
INFORMATION
The website accespleinair.org contains all the information needed to prepare for an adventure on the Dumoine (map, point-to-point route in GPX format, emergency plan, etc.).
In short
A five-day expedition to the border of Témiscamingue and Pontiac, on the Dumoine River, one of the most beautiful canoeable rivers in Quebec.
MAJOR ATTRACTION
A sporty river featuring a series of rapids accessible to intermediate canoeists.
EDITOR'S PICK
A territory little affected by progress.
sentierdumoine.ca
Our journalist was invited by Tourisme Abitibi-Témiscamingue.